Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: the Moyenne Corniche

We are at the top of the gardens (see yesterday) and looking down on the Moyenne Corniche. There are three 'corniches' running along the French Riviera: the Basse, that runs along the sea - then the Moyenne. The third is the Grand Corniche and this is reached via the road you see on the top right hand corner - going to the Col d'Eze. And of course there is the autoroute which is the highest road of all.

Think of some of the films made in the south of France and you'll have seen sports cars zipping along one of these 'corniches.' For example - To Catch A thief with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant (see the small photo).

To get an idea of how high we are - and to see this same part of the Moyenne Corniche, but taken from the Grande Corniche - click on the link.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: the Rock

Little hands testing the rock at the top of Eze. Old rock, worn smooth after centuries of use, this is just along from the castle ruins.

Note: this batch of photographs were taken in October - you'd need more clothes today AND an umbrella.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: Isabeau

There are many 'Earth Goddesses' throughout the gardens - the work of the renowned sculptor, Jean-Philippe Richard.

'He has been exploring the mysteries of femininity, in his studio in Miribel aux Baronnies in the Drôme since 1990. His women glow with eternity, whether they are made of bronze, crystal or earth. The artist calls earth "the dust of stars" and uses this raw material to bring them to life. These delicate, sensual and mysterious earth goddesses live in harmony with the plants of the Garden of Eze.'

Isabeau -

Le sol me retient,
Et alors!
J'ai la tête au ciel.

Though the ground keeps me rooted
My mind is in the heavens.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: the Castle Ruins

Only two small areas of an imposing castle built on top of the rock of Eze now remain. Built in the second part of the XIIth century by the family of Eze. It belonged to Provence and the fortress was guarded by the Castellans.

In 1706, during the war of succession of Spain, Louis the XIV ordered the destruction of the castle on the recommendations of the Minister for the war : " Sir, the King having seen the strategic situation of the castle, between Villefranche and Monaco, His Majesty the King gave me the order to destroy this castle, in order to be able to preserve this communication ".

What you see in these two photographs is all that remains.

The history of Eze though, goes back much further as fragments have been found proving that Eze was inhabited as far back as the Iron Age.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique - Château Eza

An added joy of visiting the Jardin Exotique is the view - here we are looking down on the Château Eza, one of the two fabulous hotels in the village. The other is the Chèvre d'Or which is slightly further down the village.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: the Plants

The gardens are beautifully laid out as you can see in the small 'plan' on the left.

Some plants, furry and spikey at the same time, are extraordinary. The plant in the foreground above is called Cleistocactus Strausii and originated from Bolivia and Argentina (see close-up below).

A plant is called a succulent when it stores water to withstand dryness. The Garden of Eze has succulents from Africa and America that are well-adapted to arid climates. The water is stored in the fleshy parts - mostly the leaves and stems. These plants developed tricks to limit evaporation: smooth skins, sometimes covered with wax, hairs and thorns, instead of leaves. Many succulent plants, cacti and sisal (agaves) in particular came to Europe at the time of the great Discoveries. The first cactus is believed to have been brought back by Christopher Columbus but it was not until the Renaissance that these plants were studied and understood.

The first sisal (agave) was imported in the XVIth century and when it blossomed, it was several metres high and was considered quite a marvel at the time. General Weber, a member of Maximilian of Austria's expeditionary force in 1865, was one of many to whom we owe the presence of agaves on the Riviera. Today, cacti, agaves, aloes and euphorbias are a fundamental part of the Riviera landscape.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: Statuary

We've walked to the top of Eze village - if you look at yesterday's photograph, it will give an idea of where we are. The Jardin Exotique is right at the top and everywhere we see cacti and succulents, including agaves and aloes - and amongst them, the sculptures. This is one of Jean-Philippe Richard's 'Earth Goddesses.'

At the end of the Second World War, the current mayor arranged for soil and stones to be carried to the top of Eze village and placed around the Roman ruins (we will see these later) and with the assistance of Jean Gastaud, the founder of the Exotic Garden in Monaco, they created the Jardin Exotique of Eze.

Eze Village - the Jardin Exotique: from the Grande Corniche

We're back in Eze village ready to visit the Jardin Exotique which is at the very top of the village. This is a photograph I took in the summer. We've parked at the level of the road you see bottom left - so you can see, by the time we reach the top of the village, we've walked quite a way.

Tomorrow - the gardens.

Homeward Bound

Time to leave le rocher - one last look at the battlements - just below Fort Antoine - as we walk down towards the car park. In the distance you see Cap Martin and beyond that, Italy.

Fête Nationale - the little Princess

Little girls are little girls, even if they are royal. Here you see Princess Alexandra with her mother, Princess Caroline - the eldest of Prince Albert's two sisters. Red stockinged foot through the balustrade, watching the excitement below.

In the smaller photograph you see Princess Alexandra with her father Prince Ernest August of Hanover and her half sister, Charlotte Casiraghi.

Both photographs taken by Maggie Calkins - thankyou Maggie!

Fête Nationale - Prince Albert II

Here is Monaco's much-loved, Prince Albert waving at the crowds. This photograph was taken by my friend, Maggie Calkins, a professional photographer. She has a Canon EOS 40D.

I didn't know, at the time - (as Maggie did) - that the crowd rush forward and stand below the balcony - see yesterday's photograph. I'd stayed on the Press Stand. None of my zoomed shots are sharp enough. I ran forward too late and the one below is all I got. Taken in a rush and as you see, not remotely of the quality of Maggie's. You see Prince Albert with Princess Stephanie on the right. In the background, their nephew, Pierre Casiraghi, the son of Princess Caroline.

For anyone who doesn't remember, Albert, Caroline and Stephanie are the children of the late Prince Rainier and Princess Grace (formerly Grace Kelly, the American actress).

Tomorrow - more of Maggie's photographs of the Prince and his family. Thankyou, Maggie!

Fête Nationale - Homage to the Prince

Probably the most moving moment of the Fête Nationale is when the barriers are pulled back and the Monégasque citizens and residents are allowed to surge forward, wave their flags and cheer their Prince.

Tomorrow we'll see some close-ups of the Prince and his family.

Fête Nationale - On Parade!

Displays - marching - music - police, soldiers, firemen - lots of colour, lots of noise and a very enthusiastic crowd.

Fête Nationale - the Crowd

A small (and young) part of the crowd waiting for Prince Albert II and his family to appear on the balcony.

Theme Day: Circles/Spheres - Fangio's Wheels

Once again it's Theme Day. Today's Theme is Circles/Spheres and here you see the steering wheel of the late, great Fangio's Mercedes-Benz. It's a sculpture that stands on one corner of Port Hercule in Monaco. As you see in the smaller photo - the centre of the wheel features the famous Mercedes-Benz logo.

Juan Manuel Fangio was Grand Prix World Champion five times in the 1950s. (Click on the link to see the entire sculpture).

Bloggers from 187 different cities around the world are taking part in today's Theme and will, I know, interpret this theme in a myriad of fascinating ways. Click here to view thumbnails for all participants.

Fête Nationale - the Boy Scouts and the Girl Guides

Alongside yesterday's folk dancers, were a group of scouts and guides. I didn't see any of the dancers dance or these young people parade - they simply formed a circle in front of the spectators to honour the Prince and his family.

Fête Nationale - the Folk Dancers

A group of young folk dancers being told where to stand by a policeman and the lady in the red jacket.

Fête Nationale - the story of the Press Stand

A close up of invited dignitaries waiting outside the palace for Prince Albert II and his family to appear at the balcony.

I should tell you that I took these photographs from the Press Stand - and of course I have no Press Pass. When I walked over from the cathedral I saw the enormous press stand - two or three tiers tall. I stood in front of it, as did dozens of tourists. Soon afterwards and before the cameras and film crews arrived, an official cleared everyone away - but me. This because I was using a tripod and he must have assumed I was a press person! Well, a blog is a sort of journalism, isn't it?

Later, I gained in confidence and found myself standing alongside the 'big boys' on the top level - me taking photographs with my Panasonic Lumix - they with lenses as long as a football pitch (I exaggerate but only a little). The reason the press stand was so big and holding so many press and international television crews was because rumour had it that Prince Albert would take this occasion to announce his engagement to his South African girl-friend, the Olympic swimmer Charlene Wittstock. It didn't happen.

Eventually another official came and asked me for my Press pass. Luckily I was talking to two friends, both with official press passes and I said, 'I'm with them' and my friends very kindly pretended they hadn't heard me. I was treated with such politeness by all the officials, even with an apology for asking me. French is such a wonderfully polite language, isn't it? And in my defence, I didn't get in anyone's way.

Truth is, I'm surprised my camera could take this photograph. Even tho it's not completely sharp, it's not bad considering I was an AWFUL long way away.

Fête Nationale - Guest Accommodation

After the ceremony in the cathedral, invited guests walk back to the palace, where they wait either side of the main entrance. Soon the Prince and his family will arrive - and then the displays will begin.

Fête Nationale - the Flag Carrier

We've walked over from the cathedral and are now in the square. The palace is behind us. Everyone has been given flags and scarves in Monaco's colours.

This is Zarina, who lives in Monaco. Her two Golden Retrievers are called Aston and Bentley - someone in the family likes cars! You can see another photograph of these lovely dogs - wide awake - on Riviera Dogs today.

Fête Nationale - the Judges

Waiting to enter the cathedral - are they judges? I've asked a couple of friends but so far no one knows. They didn't walk over with all the members of the legal profession - see photos a couple of days ago.

Note the small film crew on the left getting ready to interview a member of the clergy.

Fête Nationale - the Clergy

The clergy enter the cathedral. Incense is creating the mist you see.

Fête Nationale - the Law Courts

Yesterday, we saw members of the legal profession about to enter the cathedral. Dressed in red, they'd just walked down this beautiful staircase of the Palais de Justice, followed by those you see above - in black.

Red and black, robes flowing, moving fast, animated. It was theatrical. dramatic and so impressive.

Fête Nationale - the Weight of the Law

Clad in their bright red robes, members of the legal profession are about to enter Monaco's beautiful cathedral.

Built in 1875 using stone from La Turbie, the present-day Cathedral stands on the site of a 13th century church dedicated to Saint Nicolas and houses the tombs of the former Princes of Monaco. It is also the final resting place of Monaco's much loved Prince Rainier and Princess Grace, the parents of H.S.H. Prince Albert II.

Fête Nationale - the Call

Everyone needs a cell phone these days.

Fête Nationale - the Guests

The mass in the cathedral is by invitation only. The building on the left is a corner of the Palais de Justice (law courts). The cathedral is to the right of the photograph.

Tomorrow - more guests.

Fête Nationale - the Prince's Carabinieri

We've left Eze village for a while as we have interesting goings on in Monaco. Today is the Fête Nationale - a important day for Monégasques citizens when they get the opportunity to show their love and respect for their Prince - Albert II.

Monaco is a tiny principality of only 2 kilometres - the second smallest state in the world. It has just over 6000 citizens and 40,000 residents and a history that goes back over 700 years.

It's coming up to 10 a.m. and we are standing outside the cathedral on le rocher (the rock) waiting for the arrival of the royal family to celebrate mass. You see the Prince's Carabinieri in attendance.

Tomorrow, let's take a look at others who are waiting to enter the cathedral. And then later, we'll walk to the Palace and see the parades and glimpse the Prince, the Princesses and the rest of the royals as they enjoy music at the Palace balcony.

Eze Village - Wall decor

A hole in the wall - so let's put a flower pot in it. I love that people decorate a street even if it's not part of their property - and presumably water the ivy from time to time.

Eze Village - the Touch

What is he saying to her?

Note the glass cases fixed to the walls. Shop windows are tiny, or non-existent, so shopkeepers use these boxes to display their wares.

Eze Village - Keep Out!

So many tourists visit Eze village - hardly suprising as it's so beautiful. This resident is giving due warning that the staircase is private and doesn't lead to a restaurant or a shop.

Eze Village - Through the Archway...

Walk through the archway and you'll see the scene - The Back Street - that we saw two days ago. Eze village has many archways and short tunnels like this.

Eze Village - The Waiter

As you walk the streets of Eze village, you'll sometimes bump into staff who work in one of the two hotels. This waiter would have just served a guest whose room is perhaps across the street or down an alleyway. As the hotels expanded in this tiny medieval hill village, they couldn't build upwards or even outwards, they had to expand by buying up other properties in the village and using them for extra accommodation.

Eze Village - the Back Street

Turn a corner, go through an archway, explore...there are wonders everywhere in Eze Village. This little area has no shops so quieter for the residents.

Eze Village - a narrow street

We didn't finish our tour of Eze, so today we are back, walking a narrow street on our way to the Jardin d'Exotique at the top of the village. Note the tree that seems to grow from nothing.

The Sailing Lesson

This was taken at the beginning of October - the tiny boats with striped sails are taking part in a sailing lesson. The instructor is in the small red boat.

By the way, the red and white boat with the canopy - you see its wake as it moves over the water - is the ferry that crosses the harbour every half an hour. It costs one euro and for anyone who doesn't happen to own a yacht, it's a fun way to pretend! Not bad for one euro.

Monte Carlo Ladies - 23

Multi-tasking - telephone on one ear, music in the other (alright perhaps the music is turned off).

Note the bench set in its own little area - rather as if it has its own tiled rug.